A walk up Piccadilly from Hatchards towards the Circus, preferably in the mid-morning before movement becomes slow and impeded by the crowds, will bring you past the lovely church of St James Piccadilly, designed by Wren – a model of style, grace and simplicity – to the entrance to Waterstones bookstore.
Waterstones is large and has an entrance on Jermyn Street which runs parallel to Piccadilly and is named after Henry Jermyn, First Earl of St Albans who developed the St James’s area of central London in 1664.
Many tailors owned or still own the houses along the street and often let rooms to people. No. 22, Jermyn Street, for instance was once owned by Italian silk merchant Cesare Salvucci and a military tailor who rented rooms out to people such as the banker Theodore Rothschild.
The Duke of Marlborough lived there when he was Colonel Churchill, as did Isaac Newton (at No. 88, from 1696 to 1700; he then moved next door to No. 87, from 1700 to 1709, during which time he worked as Warden of the Mint), the mid-18th century highwayman and apothecary William Plunkett, the Duchess of Richmond, the Countess of Northumberland and the artist John Keyse Sherwin (in whose rooms in 1782 the actress Sarah Siddons sat for him for her portrait as Euphrasia).
The Gun Tavern was one of the great resorts for foreigners of revolutionary tastes during the end of the 18th century, whilst Grenier's Hotel was patronised by French refugees. At the Brunswick Hotel, Louis Napoleon took up his residence under the assumed name of Count D'Arenberg on his escape from captivity in the fortress of Ham.
Though he did not live there, a statue of the dandy Beau Brummell stands on Jermyn Street at its junction with Piccadilly Arcade, as embodying its elegant clothing values. Aleister Crowley lived in No. 93 during the Second World War up until 1 April. It was through Crowley that Nancy Cunard resided in a flat in Jermyn Street.
New Zealand chefs and entertainers, Hudson and Halls, lived in a flat at No. 60 in the 1990s.
Fascinating though Jermyn Street might be, it is Waterstones which is the real attraction.
The entry to Waterstones brings the reader to a semi-circular area shelved and with tables displaying a wide variety of titles.
This leads into the bookshop proper – a multi-level book emporium that is stunning and initially overwhelming. Frequent visits to such establishments have allowed me to develop a calming ritual for a moment or two before I start browsing otherwise the sheer volume of volumes becomes almost oppressive.
The various levels are set out in helpful guides as to subject matter by a wide staircase or adjacent to some (rather slow) lifts. In fact it has eight floors of books, a café, a bar, and a restaurant. To paraphrase the song Hotel California you can check in any time you like, but you need never leave.
Given its size it is not surprising that Waterstones Piccadilly is the largest bookshop in Europe.
The historic building that houses Waterstones Bookshop Piccadilly was built in 1936, designed by the architect Joseph Emberton. It was originally the flagship store of Simpson's, a prestigious retailer that sold clothing, furniture, and other goods. Simpson's was known for its innovative features, such as the first moving staircase in Europe, and its motto "No charge for the air you breathe". During World War II, the building was damaged by bombs, but it was restored and reopened in 1950. Simpson's continued to operate until 1999, when it was acquired by Waterstones.
Waterstones was founded in 1982 by Tim Waterstone, a former employee of the book chain W.H. Smith. He wanted to create a bookshop that offered a wide range of books, a knowledgeable staff, and a comfortable environment. He opened his first store in Old Brompton Road, London, and soon expanded to other locations. Waterstones became known for its distinctive branding, featuring a serif font and a turquoise colour. It also developed a reputation for supporting new and emerging authors, hosting literary events, and promoting reading culture. Today, Waterstones has over 280 stores across the UK and Europe, and is owned by the hedge fund Elliott Advisors.
Waterstones Bookshop Piccadilly is the flagship store of the Waterstones chain, and the largest bookshop in Europe. It covers over 50,000 square feet, and has over 200,000 titles in stock. It has eight floors, each dedicated to a different genre or category of books, such as fiction, history, art, travel, children's, and rare books.
It also has a floor for stationery, gifts, and games, and a floor for events and exhibitions. The bookshop has a café on the fifth floor, a bar on the lower ground floor, and a restaurant on the top floor, offering panoramic views of London. The bookshop also has free Wi-Fi, a loyalty card scheme, and a personal shopping service.
But it is not only a place to buy books, but also a place to enjoy and celebrate literature and culture. It hosts regular events, such as book signings, readings, talks, workshops, and festivals, featuring local and international authors, celebrities, and experts. Some of the past guests include Margaret Atwood, David Attenborough, Stephen Fry, Hillary Clinton, and Barack Obama. The bookshop also has a permanent exhibition space, called The Gallery, where it showcases artworks, photographs, and memorabilia related to books and authors. The bookshop also participates in annual events, such as World Book Day, Harry Potter Book Night, and Independent Bookshop Week, offering special discounts, activities, and prizes.
Waterstones Piccadilly is more than just a bookshop. It is a literary paradise in London. It may not be as old nor have the history of Hatchards but it combines the charm and history of a historic building, the variety and quality of a modern bookseller, and the stimulating environment of a cultural hub.
It is a place where anyone can find something to suit their taste, interest, and mood, and where they can discover new books, authors, and ideas. It is a place where book lovers can feel at home, and where they can share their passion with others. The trick is to browse for a few titles and take them to one of the extraordinarily comfortable seats, settle down and lose yourself in the pages.
Waterstones Bookshop Piccadilly is a place that every reader should visit at least once in their lifetime. I make a visit whenever I am in London.
Wonderful. I was born in the UK and have returned 4 times but have never set foot in Waterstones. Will do God willing.